Cortland was an early pioneer in the formulation and extrusion of nylon monofilament fishing line. Our first monofilament lines, Plion and Miracle, were introduced in 1960 and achieved such strong sales that our only extruder ran around the clock until it had to be replaced with new (and more) equipment a few years later.

Over the years, we added and discontinued lines as nylon monofilament technology and copolymer chemistry matured, and today we offer a broad selection of all-purpose and specialty high-performance monofilament lines and leaders to meet the needs of every type of angler.

Important Monofilament Characteristics

Almost 50 years of experience formulating and extruding nylon has taught us a few things about monofilament line, which we'd like to share with you.

1. Strength: A line's breaking strength (which is printed on the packaging and spool) is an indication of the amount of force it takes to break line with a steady, straight pull. While helpful, it is not necessarily an accurate measurement of what force will break the line under normal fishing conditions because many companies understate the strength of their lines so they can claim their line is "stronger" than the competition!

2. Knot Strength: The weakest link in most fishing line is the knot, and some knots break well below the breaking strength of the bare line. Some line is especially vulnerable to being weakened by knots. And, even the strongest knot will weaken your line if it's not tied properly. That's why we always recommend that you test every knot you tie before you make that first cast!

3. Diameter: Diameter is a measurement of the thickness of the line. Small diameter lines are usually more difficult for fish to see, more flexible, more vulnerable to abrasion, and weaker than larger diameter lines. Many anglers think a line's diameter is more important than its breaking strength because they want their line be difficult to see as possible -- and flexible enough to impart a natural action to their lure or bait. By contrast, anglers who pursue big, aggressive fish in off-color or snag-filled waters prefer a "fat" line for strength and abrasion resistance.

4. Shock Strength: Shock strength is the measure of how much force it takes to break lines when it's tightened very quickly. Cheap monofilament will often "pop" if you yank on it, and usually at the knot. Most of the premium monofilaments offered today have excellent shock strength, however.

5. Stretch: All monofilament line stretches, and some stretch up to 30% when really stressed. Some stretch is very desirable because it improves shock strength - but too much makes it difficult to set the hook or control the fish. Worse, lines that are overly stretchy will probably not recover after being stretched to the max, which results in a serious deterioration of line strength. All Cortland lines are formulated to deliver "controlled stretch" to provide just enough cushion for shock resistance and strength without being too stretchy.

6. Flexibility: Often called "limpness", flexibility of a measure of how much (or little) force it takes to bend the line - and how quickly it recovers. Small diameter lines are usually more flexible than large diameter lines, but not always. Many lines are formulated to be extra limp so they will cast farther with spinning reels and improve the action to the lure or bait. Other lines are formulated to be stiffer to reduce tangling. Some saltwater bite tippet material is as stiff as wire! Interestingly, monofilament fly-fishing leaders for trout work best if they have a stiffer butt section (to help "turn over" the fly when it's cast) and a limp tippet section for a more natural "drag free" drift in the current of a river or stream.

7. Abrasion Resistance: Abrasion resistance is the measure of how easily a line is scuffed, nicked or scratched by any hard objects it rubs against. Thin lines are less abrasion resistant than fat lines because any microscopic knick will take a proportionally bigger "bite" that reduces the amount of remaining nylon in a thin line much more than in a thick line. Some lines are specially formulated for extra abrasion resistance, which is a big help when fishing around rocks and snags. Saltwater lines are almost always formulated for extra abrasion resistance because they must stand up to the rubbing of sharp gill plates and fins during the fight. But, every line is subject to weakening from abrasion to some degree, which is why we recommend you always cut a few feet off of your line -- and retie your lure -- after every fish you catch, or whenever your line has scraped across a snag or rock.

Common Questions & Answers about Monofilament Line

Q. How often should I change my fishing line?
A. Nylon monofilament fishing line is very durable, but it won't last forever. Excessive heat and UV rays from the sun will weaken it over time. So will catching a lot of fish! We always recommend that you change your lines at the beginning of every fishing season so you start out every year with fresh, new line. If you're an avid angler who fishes a couple of times a week, you might want to change your lines on heavily used rods & reels a couple of times a season. Many bass professionals and saltwater anglers change their lines before every tournament. And seriously hard-core billfish anglers change their line after every fish!

Q. How and for how long should I store extra line?
A. We recommend storing unused extra line in a cool, dark place where it won't be subjected to either UV light or extreme temperatures. Stored properly, a quality nylon monofilament will maintain its strength for several years. Whenever in doubt, you can test a stored line by tying the tag end to a lure or jig and giving it a couple of strong pulls. A knot test like this will quickly reveal a line that's beginning to lose its strength. You should also dispose of any line that begins to lose its flexibility or develops a "chalky" powder on its surface.

Q. What pound test should I buy?
A. There are no hard and fast answers to this common question because fishing conditions and the species of fish you're after is very important. But as a general rule, most freshwater anglers who use spinning tackle to pursue bass, walleye and pan fish in rivers and natural lakes will be very happy with 8-pound test. Largemouth anglers fishing impoundments with a lot of structure will want to step up to 12 or 15 pound test for spinning, and as high as 20 - 25 lbs for bait casting, flipping and pitching.

Saltwater flats anglers will be well served by 8 - 10 pound test line unless they're after barracuda, tarpon or (up north) stripers and bluefish, when they should step up in strength appropriately. Whenever in doubt, consult a local fishing tackle retailer for the best local advice.

Q. What is the best knot to attach my lure to my line?
A. Entire books have been written on the subject of fishing knots, but it's really only necessary to know two or three. Check our knot tying section for a description of our favorites. We prefer the double improved clinch knot for most lure attachments, which is a standard clinch knot tied with an additional wrap through the eye of the hook, so the tag end of the line is held snugly by two wraps of line instead of one. Tied properly, the double improved clinch knot achieves almost 100% knot strength.

Another popular knot is the Palomar, which also achieves near 100% knot strength and is easy to tie. Cortland supplies knot tying instructions with every fishing line product. Or, check out our knot tying section on this website.

Q. What's the best way to trim the tag end of my line after tying a knot?
A. You can sure spot the anglers who use their teeth by the chips and notches in their lower incisors that are caused by "biting" their line! So, unless your uncle is a dentist, we recommend using either a line clipper or an inexpensive fingernail clipper obtained from a drug store. But, the worst way to trim the tag end of your line is with a butane cigarette lighter or the glowing tip of a cigarette, because either will seriously weaken the knot in your line.

Q. How should I dispose of monofilament line?
A. Monofilament line should never be thrown into the lake, river or ocean because it takes dozens of year for it to decompose, and will create a serious hazard for wildlife who might become entangled in it. The best way to dispose of old monofilament is to toss it into the recycling bin at your local fishing tackle store. If there's no way to recycle it, wind it into a tight ball, put it into an old plastic or paper bag, and put it out with the trash.